Pictures of available kittens are on each page under the mother's names. Mothers with babies have an asterisk (*) beside their names. As the kittens are sold and go to their forever homes, the pictures and asterisks will be removed. We are an FeLV and HIV negative, Iowa licensed and inspected cattery. We love our cats and kittens very much and have been raising them for 30 years! If you want a wonderful new family member, you can't go wrong with a Dunroven Siamese. Check out the Happy Kittens - Happy Owners! page to see pictures of past kittens sold and testimonials from our buyers.
The cost of our kittens is $900. To reserve a kitten from a present or future litter, you will need to make a 50% nonrefundable deposit. Now some folks ask why "nonrefundable?" When I have raised kittens in the past, folks have told me they wanted kittens and yes, by all means put them on a call list. Then when I call, they no longer want the kitten, or they have purchased another one, etc. In the meantime, I have turned down many people only to find myself having to try to retrace some steps and find more people who want the kittens. The deposit ensures that you are seriously wanting a kitten, and it also ensures that I will be providing you with a kitten. PLEASE SEE OUR SIAMESE CAT/KITTEN PURCHASE CONTRACT.
Our kittens are held from the day they are born until the day they come to your home, so they are extremely well socialized and personable.
If you would like to place a deposit for a future kitten, please use the contact form on the Home page and we can be in contact about how to do that. Paypal or regular mail is acceptable as well as credit card by phone and money orders.
Please note, our kittens leave our cattery with a distemper shot at 10 weeks, dewormed with Pyrantel and a 5-day course of Albon. The kittens also receive 3 ear mite preventions. Our kittens are all provided with Ester C as an immune support additive to their food as well as Lysine to help prevent any upper respiratory illness.
Once a kitten leaves our cattery, we will not accept them back in due to possibly passing a disease from the outside back into my Queens and other kittens. However, I will do what I can to find placement for your kitten. I have had to do this in the past due to unknown allergies and it has all gone well.
Speaking of allergies, we have had several sales this past year due to the fact that we raise Balinese, which according to several people who have allergies, are "hypoallergenic." Not all folks with allergies can have even the Balinese, and if you'd like to come and test the theory, please let me know and I'd be very glad to help you with this. We can set up a time for you to come and try holding a Balinese, both kitten and adult, so you can try before you buy. If you need more information on these beautiful Balinese, this link might help! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balinese_cat
If you purchase one of our kittens, you are agreeing to take the kitten to your vet within 72 hours of leaving here; however, due to Covid, some vets are taking longer to get kittens in. For this reason, as soon as you decide you wish a kitten, and have placed a deposit, call your vet to reserve an appointment for 72 hours after you have picked your kitten up. This ensures you keep the contract intact. If you go over the 72 hours, the contract will be void. Please be sure to adhere to this. This is just a double check and ensures first that what I have told you about the kitten is correct, and it allows your vet to get acquainted with the kitten as a youngster and put it on the right routine for vaccinations, teeth cleaning, and whatever other routine your vet may have you follow. However, we will NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY VET FEES ONCE THE KITTEN HAS LEFT OUR CATTERY. After your kitten has visited their new doctor, please ask your vet to provide you with a statement of his/her findings on his/her letterhead, showing name, address and phone number. This needs to be sent back to me in the envelope provided you with your health information. This will be kept in my file for at least one year. Please understand that if you do not take your kitten to the vet within 72 hours, the entire contract is null and void and we are no longer responsible for any issues whatsoever with your kitten.
I also like to make sure that folks understand, when you purchase one of our kittens, PLEASE make sure you know that you are making a lifetime commitment, maybe not your lifetime, but the kitten's lifetime. This could range as high as 20 to 21 years. Make sure you are ready for a long term commitment such as this.
I also do not declaw my kittens or cats, and would like to ask you to think about this before you do it. This process has been likened (in the animal world) to removing your first knuckle on each finger. Yes, we love our furniture, but is it worth the risk that your cat may find itself outside, in a world unknown to it, and it may wander into a yard with a dog or another cat that is not friendly? Your cat has little to no defense compared to the enemy and terrible tragedies can occur because of this. We just make it a practice to never take away natural defenses. I do not prohibit you from doing this, but I would like you to think it over.
Several people have asked me about some issues of kitten care, so the following is offered to help with that. Please note: I AM NOT A VETERINARIAN and do not claim to know it all. IN EVERY CASE, SEEKING A VETERINARIAN'S OPINION IS BEST.
1. Some kittens experience separation anxiety or "ship shock." This may cause them to stop eating for a day or 2 and get slightly "sad" and lethargic. This is nothing in and of itself to be concerned about. Just offer them a little moist cat food and normally that is enough to start them eating again. However, if it is not, you can take a drop or 2 of light Karo syrup and put it on the roof of their mouth. This should entice them to eat. The next step is to pick the kitten up and gently place a small chunk of moist food in their mouth. At this time, if the kitten is still not eating, and this should take just a day, then the kitten should visit the vet just to be certain that it doesn't actually have something wrong. In the cases where I have seen this, a little time and a little encouragement and a lot of patience goes a long way.
2. Kittens have accidents. They are babies after all and cannot be expected to be perfect. Mama cat teaches them about litter boxes, but still once in a while, a mistake is made. Don't be harsh, just pick up the mess, clean the spot with a "citrus" type cleaner if possible so you can get rid of the pheromones in that spot (which draws a cat's sense of smell) or a little baking soda and water to absorb it, or even dry baking soda left a few hours to absorb and then sweep it up. Place the kitten in the box and just be patient. They are learning your house and that is new to them and they can be confused at first.
3. Chlamydia/feline herpes virus. You have probably seen kittens with mucus in their eyes, or what looks like pink-eye or such. This is an infection that absolutely may be nothing and most times is nothing, BUT it can be secondary to a virus that according to the internet statistics and most veterinarians, 90% of all cats in America have now been either exposed to, have had, or are a carrier of. My vet tells me unless your cat is inside and you never get near it with a pair of shoes that have been outside and you let no one pick your cat up, you cannot avoid this disease. So what to do about it. Generally it is not a serious disease, IF caught early. Again, if caught early, a 5-day course of Cephalexin or Amoxi drops will take care of this. The kitten usually grows out of it and they may never have another bout of it. However, because the disease lays dormant in their system, the kitten/cat may develop an outbreak. If not caught early enough, lung problems can develop and the sneezing causes the sense of smell to be dulled and when a cat cannot smell its food, it will not eat. This is then a serious condition as it can result in death. Please "know" your kitten/cat. If you hear a sneeze or a cough, don't take it lightly. Immediately begin proactive steps. Watch and listen for another 24 hours. If the sneeze/cough is something that persists, GET THEE TO A VET!
4. Diarrhea. Kittens get nervous and scared. When that happens diarrhea can happen. If your kitten goes home and has diarrhea when he gets there, take their food away for 4 to 5 hours and make sure they are drinking. Diarrhea can quickly dehydrate a kitten, so you need to take precautions. If you can grasp the kittens skin on his back and pull it up and it takes quite a few seconds before it goes back to place, this is dehydration. Try to get your kitten to drink and if it absolutely refuses, call the vet. But if the skin springs right back into place, the kitten is not dehydrated and is just nervous. This will pass. After the time off of food, reintroduce it slowly and they will start to eat. Appetite is a strong incentive for cats. They have an extremely keen sense of smell. If the kitten will eat moist food, give them a small amount PLUS a small amount of pumpkin puree. This is the kind that contains no spices at all, just plain, old pumpkin. Cats love it and it acts as a feline "Metamucil."
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS CONCERNING CAT CARE, PLEASE USE THE CONTACT FORM AND ASK ME. IF I DON'T HAVE THE ANSWER, I'LL DO MY BEST TO GET IT FOR YOU.
The cost of our kittens is $900. To reserve a kitten from a present or future litter, you will need to make a 50% nonrefundable deposit. Now some folks ask why "nonrefundable?" When I have raised kittens in the past, folks have told me they wanted kittens and yes, by all means put them on a call list. Then when I call, they no longer want the kitten, or they have purchased another one, etc. In the meantime, I have turned down many people only to find myself having to try to retrace some steps and find more people who want the kittens. The deposit ensures that you are seriously wanting a kitten, and it also ensures that I will be providing you with a kitten. PLEASE SEE OUR SIAMESE CAT/KITTEN PURCHASE CONTRACT.
Our kittens are held from the day they are born until the day they come to your home, so they are extremely well socialized and personable.
If you would like to place a deposit for a future kitten, please use the contact form on the Home page and we can be in contact about how to do that. Paypal or regular mail is acceptable as well as credit card by phone and money orders.
Please note, our kittens leave our cattery with a distemper shot at 10 weeks, dewormed with Pyrantel and a 5-day course of Albon. The kittens also receive 3 ear mite preventions. Our kittens are all provided with Ester C as an immune support additive to their food as well as Lysine to help prevent any upper respiratory illness.
Once a kitten leaves our cattery, we will not accept them back in due to possibly passing a disease from the outside back into my Queens and other kittens. However, I will do what I can to find placement for your kitten. I have had to do this in the past due to unknown allergies and it has all gone well.
Speaking of allergies, we have had several sales this past year due to the fact that we raise Balinese, which according to several people who have allergies, are "hypoallergenic." Not all folks with allergies can have even the Balinese, and if you'd like to come and test the theory, please let me know and I'd be very glad to help you with this. We can set up a time for you to come and try holding a Balinese, both kitten and adult, so you can try before you buy. If you need more information on these beautiful Balinese, this link might help! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balinese_cat
If you purchase one of our kittens, you are agreeing to take the kitten to your vet within 72 hours of leaving here; however, due to Covid, some vets are taking longer to get kittens in. For this reason, as soon as you decide you wish a kitten, and have placed a deposit, call your vet to reserve an appointment for 72 hours after you have picked your kitten up. This ensures you keep the contract intact. If you go over the 72 hours, the contract will be void. Please be sure to adhere to this. This is just a double check and ensures first that what I have told you about the kitten is correct, and it allows your vet to get acquainted with the kitten as a youngster and put it on the right routine for vaccinations, teeth cleaning, and whatever other routine your vet may have you follow. However, we will NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY VET FEES ONCE THE KITTEN HAS LEFT OUR CATTERY. After your kitten has visited their new doctor, please ask your vet to provide you with a statement of his/her findings on his/her letterhead, showing name, address and phone number. This needs to be sent back to me in the envelope provided you with your health information. This will be kept in my file for at least one year. Please understand that if you do not take your kitten to the vet within 72 hours, the entire contract is null and void and we are no longer responsible for any issues whatsoever with your kitten.
I also like to make sure that folks understand, when you purchase one of our kittens, PLEASE make sure you know that you are making a lifetime commitment, maybe not your lifetime, but the kitten's lifetime. This could range as high as 20 to 21 years. Make sure you are ready for a long term commitment such as this.
I also do not declaw my kittens or cats, and would like to ask you to think about this before you do it. This process has been likened (in the animal world) to removing your first knuckle on each finger. Yes, we love our furniture, but is it worth the risk that your cat may find itself outside, in a world unknown to it, and it may wander into a yard with a dog or another cat that is not friendly? Your cat has little to no defense compared to the enemy and terrible tragedies can occur because of this. We just make it a practice to never take away natural defenses. I do not prohibit you from doing this, but I would like you to think it over.
Several people have asked me about some issues of kitten care, so the following is offered to help with that. Please note: I AM NOT A VETERINARIAN and do not claim to know it all. IN EVERY CASE, SEEKING A VETERINARIAN'S OPINION IS BEST.
1. Some kittens experience separation anxiety or "ship shock." This may cause them to stop eating for a day or 2 and get slightly "sad" and lethargic. This is nothing in and of itself to be concerned about. Just offer them a little moist cat food and normally that is enough to start them eating again. However, if it is not, you can take a drop or 2 of light Karo syrup and put it on the roof of their mouth. This should entice them to eat. The next step is to pick the kitten up and gently place a small chunk of moist food in their mouth. At this time, if the kitten is still not eating, and this should take just a day, then the kitten should visit the vet just to be certain that it doesn't actually have something wrong. In the cases where I have seen this, a little time and a little encouragement and a lot of patience goes a long way.
2. Kittens have accidents. They are babies after all and cannot be expected to be perfect. Mama cat teaches them about litter boxes, but still once in a while, a mistake is made. Don't be harsh, just pick up the mess, clean the spot with a "citrus" type cleaner if possible so you can get rid of the pheromones in that spot (which draws a cat's sense of smell) or a little baking soda and water to absorb it, or even dry baking soda left a few hours to absorb and then sweep it up. Place the kitten in the box and just be patient. They are learning your house and that is new to them and they can be confused at first.
3. Chlamydia/feline herpes virus. You have probably seen kittens with mucus in their eyes, or what looks like pink-eye or such. This is an infection that absolutely may be nothing and most times is nothing, BUT it can be secondary to a virus that according to the internet statistics and most veterinarians, 90% of all cats in America have now been either exposed to, have had, or are a carrier of. My vet tells me unless your cat is inside and you never get near it with a pair of shoes that have been outside and you let no one pick your cat up, you cannot avoid this disease. So what to do about it. Generally it is not a serious disease, IF caught early. Again, if caught early, a 5-day course of Cephalexin or Amoxi drops will take care of this. The kitten usually grows out of it and they may never have another bout of it. However, because the disease lays dormant in their system, the kitten/cat may develop an outbreak. If not caught early enough, lung problems can develop and the sneezing causes the sense of smell to be dulled and when a cat cannot smell its food, it will not eat. This is then a serious condition as it can result in death. Please "know" your kitten/cat. If you hear a sneeze or a cough, don't take it lightly. Immediately begin proactive steps. Watch and listen for another 24 hours. If the sneeze/cough is something that persists, GET THEE TO A VET!
4. Diarrhea. Kittens get nervous and scared. When that happens diarrhea can happen. If your kitten goes home and has diarrhea when he gets there, take their food away for 4 to 5 hours and make sure they are drinking. Diarrhea can quickly dehydrate a kitten, so you need to take precautions. If you can grasp the kittens skin on his back and pull it up and it takes quite a few seconds before it goes back to place, this is dehydration. Try to get your kitten to drink and if it absolutely refuses, call the vet. But if the skin springs right back into place, the kitten is not dehydrated and is just nervous. This will pass. After the time off of food, reintroduce it slowly and they will start to eat. Appetite is a strong incentive for cats. They have an extremely keen sense of smell. If the kitten will eat moist food, give them a small amount PLUS a small amount of pumpkin puree. This is the kind that contains no spices at all, just plain, old pumpkin. Cats love it and it acts as a feline "Metamucil."
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS CONCERNING CAT CARE, PLEASE USE THE CONTACT FORM AND ASK ME. IF I DON'T HAVE THE ANSWER, I'LL DO MY BEST TO GET IT FOR YOU.
Full tummy or smelly boot? Either way, this little guy is out for the count! LOL
Sheeba - Balinese, sister to Muggs
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Muggs - Balinese, sister to Sheeba
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Sheeba and Muggs were sisters. They "normally" were pregnant at the same time, had their babies within a few days of each other, and refuse to be separated to care for their babies. They had them all in the same birthing box and if we don't leave them together, they set up a howl until they are put back together.
These two girls were my first Balinese and I loved them dearly. I lost both of them over the past 2 years and I miss them terribly. I think of them every day when I am cleaning in the cattery and really wish I still had them. But they are a great memory for me and my years raising kittens.
These two girls were my first Balinese and I loved them dearly. I lost both of them over the past 2 years and I miss them terribly. I think of them every day when I am cleaning in the cattery and really wish I still had them. But they are a great memory for me and my years raising kittens.
This is Honey Girl. She is such a sweety and these are her 6 new babies born on June 9. She's a fabulous mother! She is a short-haired chocolate point.
For my birthday today (07/15) my husband gave me this stuffed lion. Its about 4 feet long and extremely heavy. You can see that the kittens enjoy it as much as I do! LOL
On a cold winter's day in December, just snuggling up with the family and keeping warm on mom's fleece throw.